Rolex is truly unlike any other watch brand. In fact, this private, independent organization is unlike most other companies.

Rolex is truly unlike any other watch brand. In fact, this private, independent organization is unlike most other companies. I can say it now more clearly than most because I was there. Rolex rarely allows anyone into their hallowed halls, but I was invited to visit four of their manufacturing plants in Switzerland to see firsthand how Rolex makes their famous timepieces.
Rolex is unique: it is respected, admired, appreciated and known all over the world. Sometimes I sit and think about everything that Rolex is and does, and I find it hard to believe that they end up just making watches. In fact, Rolex only makes watches, and their watches have become more than just chronometers. Having said that, the reason “Rolex is Rolex” is because they are good watches and keep time well. It has taken me over ten years to fully appreciate the brand, and it may be longer before I know everything I want to know about it.
The purpose of this article is not to give you a comprehensive understanding of Rolex. This is not possible because at the moment Rolex has a strict no photography policy. There is a real secret behind the production, since it is relatively closed, and its activities are not advertised. The brand takes the concept of Swiss restraint to the next level, and it’s good for them in many ways. Since we can’t show you what we saw, I want to share with you some interesting facts that every Rolex and watch lover should know.
Many watch lovers are familiar with the fact that Rolex uses steel that no one else has. Stainless steel is not all the same. There are many types and grades of steel… most steel watches are made from 316L stainless steel. Today, all steel in Rolex watches is made from 904L steel, and as far as we know, almost no one else does. Why?
Rolex used to use the same steel as everyone else, but around 2003 they switched steel production entirely to 904L steel. In 1988 they released their first 904L watch and several versions of the Sea-Dweller. 904L steel is more resistant to rust and corrosion and is harder than other steels. Most importantly for Rolex, 904L steel polishes (and holds) remarkably under normal use. If you’ve ever noticed that the steel in Rolex watches is different from other watches, it’s because of 904L steel and how Rolex learned to work with it.
A natural question arises: why is the rest of the watch industry not using 904L steel? A good guess is that it’s more expensive and harder to process. Rolex had to replace most of its steelworking machines and tools in order to work with 904L steel. It makes a lot of sense to them because they make a lot of watches and do all the details themselves. Phone cases for most other brands are made by third parties. So while 904L is more suitable for watches than 316L, it is more expensive, requires special tools and skills, and is generally more difficult to machine. This has prevented other brands from taking advantage of this (for now), which is a feature of Rolex. The benefits are obvious once you get your hands on any Rolex steel watch.
With all that Rolex has done over the years, it’s no wonder they have their own R&D department. However, Rolex is so much more. Rolex has not one, but several different types of extremely well-equipped specialized science labs in various locations. The purpose of these laboratories is not only to research new watches and things that can be used in watches, but also to research more efficient and rational production technologies. One way to look at Rolex is that it is a very capable and well organized manufacturing company that just makes watches.
Rolex laboratories are as diverse as they are amazing. Perhaps the most visually interesting is the chemistry lab. The Rolex chemistry lab is filled with beakers and test tubes of liquids and gases, staffed by trained scientists. What is it mainly used for? One thing that Rolex claims is that this lab is used to develop and research the oils and lubricants they use in their machines during the manufacturing process.
Rolex has a room with several electron microscopes and several gas spectrometers. They can study metals and other materials very closely to study the impact of processing and manufacturing methods. These large areas are impressive and are used carefully and regularly to eliminate or prevent problems that may arise.
Of course, Rolex also uses its scientific laboratories to create the watches themselves. One interesting room is the stress test room. Here, watch movements, bracelets and cases are subjected to artificial wear and tear and mishandling on specially made machines and robots. Let’s just say it’s perfectly reasonable to assume that a typical Rolex watch is designed to last a lifetime (or two).
One of the biggest misconceptions about Rolex is that machines make watches. The rumor is so common that even the staff at aBlogtoWatch believe it’s mostly true. This is due to the fact that Rolex has traditionally said little on this topic. In truth, Rolex watches offer all the practical attention you would expect from a quality Swiss watch.
Rolex makes sure to use technology in this process. In fact, Rolex has the most sophisticated watchmaking equipment in the world. Robots and other automated tasks are indeed being used for tasks that humans can’t handle. These include sorting, storage, cataloging and very detailed procedures for the type of maintenance you want the machine to do. However, most of these machines are still manually operated. Everything from the Rolex movement to the bracelet is assembled by hand. However, the machine does help with things like applying the right pressure when connecting the pins, aligning parts, and pushing hands. However, the hands of all Rolex watches are still set by hand by skilled craftsmen.
To say that Rolex is obsessed with quality control would be an understatement. The main theme in production is checking, re-checking, and re-checking. It seems that their goal is to make sure that if a Rolex breaks, it will be done before it leaves the factory. Every movement produced by Rolex is worked on by a large team of watchmakers and assemblers. Here is a comparison of their movements before and after they were sent to COSC for chronometer certification. In addition, Rolex re-verifies the accuracy of movements by simulating wear and tear after they have been boxed for several days before shipping them to retailers.
Rolex makes its own gold. While they have several suppliers who ship steel to them (Rolex still recycles steel to make all of its parts), all of the gold and platinum is produced locally. 24 carat gold goes to Rolex and then becomes 18 carat yellow, white or eternal gold Rolex (an unfading version of their 18 carat rose gold).
In large furnaces, under a blazing flame, metals were melted and mixed, from which they then made watch cases and bracelets. Since Rolex controls the production and processing of their gold, they can strictly control not only the quality but also the most beautiful details. As far as we know, Rolex is the only watch company that produces its own gold and even has its own foundry.
The Rolex philosophy seems very pragmatic: if people can do better, let people do it, if machines can do better, let machines do it. There are actually two reasons why more and more watchmakers don’t use machines. First, machines are a huge investment, and in many cases cheaper to have people do it. Second, they don’t have the production needs of Rolex. In fact, Rolex is lucky to have robots helping out at its facilities when needed.
At the core of Rolex’s automation expertise is the main warehouse. The massive columns of parts are manned by robotic servants who store and retrieve trays of parts or whole clocks. Watchmakers who need parts simply place an order through the system and the parts are delivered to them in about 6-8 minutes via a series of conveyor systems.
When it comes to repetitive or highly detailed tasks that require consistency, robotic arms can be found at Rolex manufacturing sites. Many Rolex parts are initially robot-polished, but surprisingly, they are also ground and polished by hand. The point is that while modern technology is an integral part of the Rolex Manufacturing Machine, robotic devices can help in the most realistic human watchmaking operations…more »